The Taco Bell Crunchwrap launched in 2005 and was soon made a permanent menu item. Over two decades, the hexagon-shaped handheld has become such a beloved creation for the fast-food chain, chefs around the country are paying homage by developing their own versions.
And for Centro Restaurant Group in Minneapolis, that homage has become a new brand.
In late July, the group launched Hippo Pockets in South Minneapolis, a tiny fast-casual spot offering a simple menu of about 10 pockets, or “flying saucers of fun,” from the Chicken Bacon Ranch (chicken patty, lettuce, tomato, bacon, ranch dressing) to the Cubano (citrus-braised pork, ham, yellow mustard, Swiss cheese and pickle) all around $12 to $13.
Similar to a Crunchwrap in format—but most definitely not a Crunchwrap—the fillings are wrapped in a large tortilla, folded into a hexagon and grilled. There’s a layer of crunch inside, with varying ingredients, but it’s about three times bigger and thicker than a typical Taco Bell Crunchwrap.
Hippo Pockets also has a kid’s menu with smaller kid-sized pockets, as well as salads and bowls, and even dessert pockets, like one stuffed with Nutella, cinnamon graham cracker, cherry jam and marshmallow fluff.
There are also Dipz, of course, for dipping one’s pocket, and a lively beverage menu of “Hippo Sipps,” with boba teas and more.
Centro Restaurant Group CEO Jami Olson said they did not set out to create a concept around the menu item, but the group sort of accidentally struck a chord.
It began before the pandemic. As a young restaurant company, just starting out with Centro and a higher-end brand called Popul Vuh (that didn’t come back after the COVID-19 shutdown), Olson said they were looking for ways to drive sales.
They decided to do a popup at a nearby brewery with their take on a Taco Bell menu. Local media picked it up and the event was slammed.
“It was absolute insanity,” said Olson. “We sold out of food in, like, 10 minutes. There was a line a mile long.”
Olson admits they did “borrow” a bit of branding from Taco Bell. So, not surprisingly, they soon received a cease-and-desist letter from the Irvine, California-based chain.
At that point, COVID hit, and restaurants were shut down.
But, when Centro came back, Olson saw room to create their own menu based on what had been developed for that Taco Bell event. Those items became a weekly special on Monday nights.
And, every Monday, there was a line down the block, said Olson.
One of the most popular items that came from that limited-time offer, however, was their version of the Crunchwrap Supreme, which Centro called Crunches, or hand-held tortilla packets stuffed with various fillings and grilled.
At the group’s four Centro locations, Crunches now account for about 20% of sales, said Olson.
About two years ago, the group decided to explore what more could be done with that menu item. They decided to launch a spinoff with a virtual concept out of the group’s commissary kitchen, dubbed Hippo Pockets.
It was a hit.
“We found a lot of excitement around it and people, they love it,” said Olson. “So we decided to open our first store.”
From a culinary standpoint, the options possible in the Hippo Pocket format are limitless, she said.
“At first, it was really structured. We needed that crunchy tostada element in the middle,” she said. “But it doesn’t have to be that. The firmness of the product makes a huge difference. It needs to be ingredients that don’t fall apart and slop everywhere, so you can hold it in your hand. But it’s a fun product to do pretty much anything with.”
On the menu now, for example, is a Birria Pocket with braised beef, Chihuahua cheese, onions and cilantro, a tostada and spicy chili consommé.
There’s also the Pickle Pocket, with pickle planks, dill cream cheese, ham, pickled jalapeno and Pik-Nik stick potatoes for the crunchy element.
And, perhaps risking a poke to yet another fast-food brand, there’s The Royale, with a hamburger patty, special sauce, American cheese, lettuce, pickles, onions—and fries— inside the pocket.
A giant blue Hippo serves as a mascot for the brand, which Olson said is designed to be fun and nostalgic, but also to satisfy everyday cravings.
Olson said Hippo Pockets has a second outlet in U.S. Bank Stadium, where the Minnesota Vikings play. The plan is to open a few more around Minneapolis, and then explore new markets. Franchising is possible, down the road.
The first brick-and-mortar Hippo Pockets outlet opened in late July. | Photo courtesy of Hippo Pockets.
“We really want to test the market,” she said. “Is this a college town brand? Is it more of a family, in-the-neighborhood-type brand? We’re going to explore and put up test shops and see what works where.”
In addition to the primary Centro brand, the group operates a smashburger concept called Everywhen, as well as a the Mexican café Vivir, and a dive bar called Bina’s.
But Hippo Pockets is the growth brand, for now, said Olson.
“In this economy right now, we’re really wanting to focus on the lower-risk projects, which is why we have turned our attention to Hippo Pockets and that expansion,” she said.
Olson is aware that many other chefs are playing with the Crunchwrap format.
And so is Taco Bell.
In a statement, Taco Bell officials said they are flattered that other brands have been inspired by the Crunchwrap.
“It’s a testament to how iconic the product has become,” the company said in a statement. “The fact that people are still remixing it 20 years later is the best kind of validation. We’re not surprised, as fans have always taken ownership of their favorite menu items and the Crunchwrap is no exception.”
And, at least for now, imitators are not likely to put a dent in Taco Bell’s Crunchwrap sales.
In 2024 alone, Taco Bell sold more than 100 million Crunchwrap Supremes, and it remains the second most ordered a la carte item, the company said.
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