Beverage

Hilton's new 'apertivo hour' offers an Italian-style rooftop bar experience that spans the seasons

Behind the Menu: The hotel’s food and beverage team transformed the former summertime bar atop the Conrad New York Downtown into Leonessa, a three-season destination with a cocktail list filled with spritzes, bitters and spirit-free drinks.
rooftop bar
Leonessa, the new rooftop cocktail spot at the Conrad New York Downtown hotel, evokes a bar on the Amalfi Coast. | All photos courtesy of Hilton.
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Loopy Doopy, the longtime open rooftop bar atop Hilton’s Conrad New York Downtown, was a popular summer destination for sipping popsicle-infused cocktails while taking in views of the Hudson River and Statue of Liberty. 

But Loopy Doopy had met its time, said Adam Crocini, senior VP of design, wellness and food & beverage at Hilton. “We like to refresh our food and beverage concepts every seven to 10 years, and this was a really good opportunity for us to introduce a forward-thinking bar concept with a retractable, covered roof that would be able to bridge beyond the summer far into both shoulder seasons,” he said.

After gaining a better understanding of the space and market, Crocini and his StiR Creative Collective team at Hilton started digging into what kind of story they wanted the bar to tell. “Younger people are drinking less, and alcohol sales more broadly are down in a post-COVID world, with more people choosing lower-alcohol cocktails or alternating between spirited and free-spirited drinks,” he said. “Plus, the hotel’s location on the water inspired the team to lean into an Amalfi Coast spritz bar concept that informs the design and menu.”

They renamed the bar Leonessa, decorated the rooftop with the yellows and blues that evoke Italy’s Amalfi Coast and created a menu filled primarily with lower-alcohol spritzes, Italian-inspired cocktails and inventive zero-alcohol drinks.

A toast to the apertivo

The Hilton team partnered with Ariel Arce, a New York City beverage consultant known as the “Champagne Empress of Greenwich Village,” to bring the menu to life. The spritz section goes beyond the ubiquitous Aperol, encouraging guests to explore more authentic versions. For example, there’s the Sempre Avanti, a mix of champagne, Strega, mint and angostura bitters, and the Lei Sai, a blend of tequila, passion fruit, vanilla and Prosecco. 

cocktails

Leonessa's list offers a large selection of bitters and spritzes.

Bitters are a more common cocktail category in Italy than the U.S., and Leonessa offers an extensive selection, including Negronis on tap. Lighter choices include the Americano (sweet vermouth, Campari and soda) and Spagliato (sweet vermouth, Campari and Prosecco.) A signature martini, the Leonessa, is made with gin, dry vermouth, and orange and lemon bitters, and there’s a Caffe Tonico, a mix of vodka, coffee, Frangelico and tonic water—what some trendspotters are calling the “next espresso martini.”

The Sgroppino, one of Arce’s last-minute additions, is a traditional Italian aperitif made with vodka, limoncello and lemon sorbet. “It’s a beautiful, summery drink that was something Ariel had recommended at the beginning, but had to be perfected,” said Crocini. “But what's really interesting about this program is how well operationalized it is. The Negroni is on draft, and so is the Leonessa Martini. So we are able to create these beautiful craft cocktails and serve them quickly.”

cocktail

The Sgroppino combines limoncello, vodka and sorbet. 

The spirit-free drinks cross-utilize many ingredients from the cocktail side—minus the booze. The Una Siesta combines non-alcoholic ginger beer, blood orange and lemon, while La Signora uses N/A Lyre’s gin, grapefruit honey and soda. The Italian soda, limonetta, is the base for Le Stelle, along with mint, passion fruit and lime.

Wines, beers, nightcaps and fruttes—fruit-based apertivos—round out the list. 

Right now, Leonessa offers a rotation of free snacks, including fennel biscuits, Marcona almonds seasoned with rosemary and salt, marinated olives, Parmesan twists and tapenade. Down the road, the snack selection and food menu may be expanded in sync with the Italian theme. Same with the drinks, which may take on seasonal flavors in the fall, said Crocini.

Designing an immersive experience

The rooftop’s design reinforces the Amalfi Coast vibe. “If you look at any of the restaurants and bars in that part of Italy, they typically have yellow striped seat cushions and big blue awnings, along with live orange and olive trees,” said Crocini. “We gave that brief to the designer to help us start telling that story, and I think we accomplished it.” 

The space is adorned with a water fountain, imported tiles, orange and lemon trees and greenery to evoke an Italian palazzo. The glassware has also been chosen to reflect Italian cocktail culture. “You really feel like you are transported from the roof of the Conrad New York to the Amalfi Coast,” said Crocini.

Albeit with a view of the Statue of Liberty.

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